We just receiver a shipment of the new Racekraft 5051 propellers what the racing community was buzzing about for the past few weeks. I did not spend a lot of time researching these propellers, but some pilots swear that this is the next best thing what happened in the drone racing.
My personal opinion does not really matter, because I am only a “once a month” racer, and I am not burning batteries like most of you guys do. This is mostly due to the fact that running a hobby shop for the past 9 years kind of eats up my time. However when I heard about this I started reading and researching and I was barely waiting to get these in and test them on the thrust meter.
I realize measuring the thrust of a propeller might not be an ideal way of measuring the propellers performance in flight, but I would not claim that anyway. I am just simply comparing the two propellers on a thrust-stand to see what thrust factor can one expect during flight.
A good resource which I read about these propellers was written by the folk on Propwashed: (http://www.propwashed.com/racekraft-5051-prop-review/) If you want to know more about these propellers I highly recommend reading their article. I don’t even pretend to understand propellers as well as these guys do. So without a delay then after you read that article come back and watch the video below on the results of the thrust testing and comparison of these propellers with the Dalprop 5045 V2 triblades.
At the end if you like want you see and would like to purchase these propellers, you can click on the following picture and link to take you to the website where you can order these:
The EMAX 2205 red bottoms have been in use now for over a year. These motors still seem to dominate the racing grounds, even though newer motors were developed since. some of the newer ones have better bearings, some even have ceramic ball bearings which will minimize the noise.
The EMAX 2205 however is still a strong competitor to most motors our there. Many people walked by to our store and were asking for parts on these motors. It seems that the low price on these motors have a toll on the quality of the parts they are coming with. We know for sure that the bearings are not the best, but they do the job. In most cases people start hearing the bearing noises after a few flights.
While it is very rare to bend the shaft of these motors, a hard hit to a soccer pole can do the trick. We have seen some requests for these as well.
To accommodate all these requests, we are now bringing you the most essential replacement parts for the EMAX 2205 red bottom motors. The pictures below link you to the product pages where you can purchase these.
The Ball Bearing:
The RS2205 3mm Motor Shaft: The RS2205 Bronze Collar: The RS2205 U Clip:
The release of the Fatshark Dominator HD3 is around the corner now. It is time to take a look at what these goggles will offer our customers and what will be the benefits of using these new goggles.
As one can notice there is a slight change in the naming convention, till now the HD goggles contained the letter V for “Version”, these new goggles were released as “HD3” without the letter V.
Continuing the trend of using high resolution LCD modules for the HD line of goggles, Fat shark’s new flagship goggles, the Dominator HD3 will come with set of 800×600 SVGA resolution LCD modules. Just like it’s predecessors the HDV2 or the HD. The Dominator HD3 will provide a huge screen size compared to the other goggles, and it will eliminate all the complaints from the previous versions regarding the blurriness around the edges. These goggles have a diagonal FOV dialed back to 42 degrees to maintain large screen experience while delivering a crisp optical performance and perfect OSD readability.
Pilots flying with digital video transmitters like the Connex or the Prosight will appreciate the new 16:9 display format when in HDMI mode. The HDMI input will detect and match the display aspect ratio for HD systems and automatically present the image in a 16:9 (letterbox) format. The native resolution of the LCD display module is 4:3, and pilots flying with a built in receiver or an analog video input will enjoy a huge full screen 4:3 image providing a crisp and clear image received from the 4:3 FPV cameras.
The official specifications released by Fatshark are as follows:
– FOV 42° Diagonal
– 59-69mm IPD Range (adjustable)
– SVGA 800 X 600 Display
– Support Side/Side 3D
– NTSC/PAL Auto Selecting
– High definition media interface 720p Support
– Modular Head Tracker Bay
– Modular Receiver Bay
– DC in: 7-13V (2S/3S)
– Power Consumption: 4W
– Integrated Analog DVR (does not support HD recording)
What you should expect when opening the box:
– Dominator HD3 Headset with fan-equipped faceplate
– Zipper Case
– 7.4V, 1800mAh Battery with LED Indicator
– AV Cable
– Mini to Mini high definition media interface cable (include Mini to Micro, Mini to Standard high definition media interface adapters)
The HD3 ships with new lower profile Velcro backed (removable) faceplate foam for a more accommodating fit. The HD3 is the most powerful, most versatile and portable FPV goggle which appeared on the FPV market yet. This will and the top choice of drone pilots.
The new Tramp HV Video transmitter is the smallest, lightest, high-power, high-voltage A/V Transmitter in the business, 31 x 20mm, with a slender 17mm waist, weighing only 4 grams! Even at this size, the traditional ImmersionRC 5V filtered camera power supply is also included. Twin ground cables from the tiny locking connectors ensure that noisy supply currents keep the camera supply clean. To cap it off, in addition to running directly from a 2s-4s (HV) LiPo, the TrampHV will happily run from a 5V supply already available in the quad.
Unboxing and first setup video:
– Smallest direct LiPo powered VTx in the business.
– TNR Touch-free wand control
– Traditional button + LED control of frequency and power
– 1mW -> 600mW linear power control
– All 40 standard channels
– Built-in thermal protection
– Factory power normalization
– Glitch-Free frequency changes
– Micro-power pit mode
– Additional channels for race events (Race Wand only)
– Retail regional locking without opening package
The ImmersionRC TrampHV was the first transmitter to support Pit Mode, which was introduced successfully at the FPVAirShow in France. Pit mode transmits a tiny amount of power on a pre-defined frequency to allow for quad setup at a race event without disrupting the show. Pit mode on the TrampHV is a little different than other offerings, being controlled by race directors transparently at drone races. A race director can stay legal by choosing a pit frequency authorized for use at the event, which can be different for events in different regions. Programmed at the event using the Touch’n’Race wand.
Touch ‘n’ Race for Race Directors
Touch’n’Race, a patent-pending technology which helps both the casual racer, and race directors alike.
Transmitters are placed in Race mode upon arrival at a race event, and remain in that mode until the event is over. Race directors can, without powering up a model, define the frequency and power output of the transmitter, in 5 seconds flat before a race starts. As soon as the race is over, and the battery disconnected, the TrampHV reverts to it’s race-director defined mode. Massively decreased inter-heat times are possible with this technology, meaning more practice runs, more qualifiers, and races which start and finish on-time (a rarity in the world of drone racing today). More importantly, the chances of a race being disrupted by an accidental power-up in the pits are eliminated, a dream for race organizers.
Touch ‘n’ Race for Pilots
Why let race directors have all the fun?. The personal TNR wand* avoids dip-switch hell even in the local park. Touch-free programming of video transmitters before you launch, eliminating frequency collisions, eliminating the ‘what channel was I on last’ question, and allowing power levels to be modified between flights to adapt to local conditions. Note that the wand is not required to operate the transmitter. A traditional button + LED user interface may also be used to program channel, band, and power level.
We have all experienced long delays at the starting grid before starting a race. No airflow over the electronics and video transmitters overheating. Most video transmitters (even the higher end units) have no thermal protection whatsoever and will happily cook themselves and prematurely fail. The TrampHV is a little different. It constantly monitors the temperature of the Tx, and gracefully reduces power output to increase battery life and protect the transmitter. As soon as the props start spinning, it detects the temperature reduction and quickly boosts power output.
Screened for Protection, and Certification
The only Video Transmitter in this size and weight class with a fully screened RF deck, providing protection against dust, dirt and knocks, while ensuring smooth sailing through the RTT&E certification process. An optional plastic case can be easily installed to increase this protection even further, without adding excessive size and weight.
The TrampHV was designed alongside ImmersionRC’s RF Lap Timing system, with certified compatibility. LapRF eliminates the need for transponders on the quad for lap timing, and instead uses the energy emitted by the 5.8GHz transmitter on the quadcopter. Two LapRF versions will be available, a 16-channel race version for larger events, and a personal system no larger than a hockey puck for personal use (up to 4 pilots). Both versions sport a wireless connection to a smart phone for timing and configuration.
Another first, introduced by ImmersionRC at FPVAirRace, is technology which allows video transmitters to power up cleanly on their assigned channel without wiping out neighboring channels. Gone are the days when your fellow pilots need to hover safely why you power up beside them. This technology enables asynchronous race starts, where pilots join a race at any time without creating any interference.
Each and every TrampHV is factory calibrated to ensure precise power outputs, especially at the critical low-power race levels. No more cross-talk from 25mW transmitters which are instead emitting 200mW!, or worse, 25mW transmitters which emit much lower power levels. No more RF lap timing issues caused by pilots running wildly different power levels.
We Know Racing!
ImmersionRC has been involved in drone racing since the early days.
Creators of the ubiquitous RaceBand, and involved in providing technology for some of the largest racing events to date, we have poured significant resources into racing, and more importantly, learned from these events. Our employees race, we ‘eat our own dogfood’, and we will continue to advance the state of the art.
– Dimensions: L=32mm x W=14mm x H=5mm
– Weight: 4g (Tx only, without SMA cable)
– Power Output: Programmable, 1mW to > 600mW
– Channels: 48 standard, arbitrary using race wand
– RF Impedance: 50 ohms
– RF Connector: U.FL
– AV Connector: JST-GH, 6 pin, locking
– TNR Connector: JST-GH, 4 pin, locking
– Audio: Mono, Subcarriers on 6.0 and 6.5MHz (cloned)
– Modulation: FM, Audio and Video
– Pit Frequency: User/Race Organizer Definable
– Video Impedance: 75 ohms
– Power Requirements: 2s-4s HV Lipo
– Power Consumption: ~4W max. @ 600mW, ~1.9W @ 200mW
The Tramp 5.8Ghz VTX shows it’s full potential in racing conditions. While many people who do not participate in racing do not realize, in race conditions, video interference kicked out many pilots from the air / race because somebody else behind the flight-line turned on a video transmitter. This is quite unfortunate and with the Tramp/TNR Wand combination it could be the thing of the past. When you go to a race, the race director will touch your Tramp with the TNR wand and that will put your Tramp transmitter into Race mode. In this mode even if you apply power to the quad/Tramp VTX, the power output will be minimal – down to under 1mW – which will allow you to troubleshoot in the pit even if you power it up. The low power output will prevent the transmitter from interfering with anybody else in the area – because your signal output is so low, that it will barely leave the table you are working on.
Once you line up for the race, the race director will touch your Tramp again, this time assigning you the correct race power setting, band setting and channel setting. When you power your Tramp on, these settings will be in effect for the duration of the race. When you finished your race and you powered your quad racer down, the tramp will go back into pit mode.
The beauty of this solution is that the Pit mode settings are completely defined by the race director. This can be defined on a frequency which is not even used at the race, to allow a bit more power output for pit operations. This started to already redefine the safety around race events. The past few events which used the Tramp in conjunction with the TNR wand were faster, more eventful and the downtime was minimized allowing pilots to fly more often.
Today we received the first shipment of the new Fat Shark Domintor SE goggles. Looking at the box the first time it seems that there is a typo on the label, it says “Dominator SE Modular 3D FPV Headset” while these are not 3D goggles. If 3D display is important to you, then these are not your goggles 🙂 The box looks like this, as you can see you can ignore the 3D from the titel as specified above.
The box is a high profile box to allow space for the tall zipper case holding the goggles with the faceplate installed. the box size is 21×14.5x11cm and the total shipping weight is around 850 grams or 0.85kg. Once you remove the zipper case from the box you can see a second layer underneath, where the manual, foam inserts for the face place and stickers are neatly arranged. With this packaging Fat Shark made a huge leap forward in packaging, the foam inserts come nice and straight ready to install.
Inside the zipper case are all the goodies:
According to Fat Shark, the content of the box is:
– Dominator SE Headset with Fan equipped Face plate
– Tall Zipper Case
– Raceband 5G8 Receiver module
– Spironet RH Omni antenna
– 7.4V 1000mAh battery with LED indicator
– Battery charge adapter cable.
In addition to the above we also found the following:
– Lens cleaning cloth
– one set of two -2 Dioptre correction lenses
– 2 sets of foam and the walcro plate for the face place
– Startup manual in English, French, Spanish, Italian and German languages
The Dominator SE (FSV1065) features a 0.44″ VGA LCD display set to provide this large FOV goggle at fraction of the price of the popular HDV2 used by most of the top racing pilots around the world. For analog video the difference one can see with the bear eyes between the Dominator SE and Dominator HDV2 is almost imperceptible. The orange and black color scheme makes this goggle a really unique and standing out from all others.
We can find the following specifications on the goggle box:
– 59-69mm IPD range (adjustable with sliders on the bottom)
– VGA 640×480 LCD Display
– NTSC/PAL auto signal selection
– Modular head tracker bay (No head tracking module included)
– Modular receiver bay
– DC In: 7-13V for 2S or 3S batteries
– Integrated DVR.
Fat Shark included the latest DVR technology in these goggles, where the file is saved automatically even if you forget to stop the recording before unplugging the battery.
This new set of goggles is a steal for the MAP of 349.95USD. You can buy it from New Generation Hobbies, by clicking on the following link or on the image below: Buy Dominator Se Goggles.
This article however will describe how to use a better – 25mW transmitter/camera combo on the tiny whoop/inductrix. The SMPVA1000 from horizon hobby is a 5mW only transmitter which will work well without modification on the Tiny Whoop, but it will give you limited FPV satisfaction because the 5mW transmission power only. To increase the range and signal clarity, you need to use at least 25mW (SPMVA2500), which is available, however it was designed to be powered from a 5V power supply. This originally was designed to be powered from a minimum 4.8V power line by being plugged into an RC Receiver. If it is, you can even change the video channel through a PPM link.
Let’s take a look at the SPMVA2500 and what do we need to make this work from 1S (3.7V) battery. When you open the box, the 25 mW transmitter/camera combo looks like this:
As you can see, there is a servo cable sticking out from it, this can be powered from an RC receiver. We will show you how to modify this without actually removing the original cable. YOu can remove it on yours if you will only use it for the Tiny Whoop that way you will save a few grams of weight. So let’s see what you need to make this happen:
– a small exacto knife or hobby cutter with blade no. 11
– fine tip soldering iron with temperature control
– needle nose tweezers
– a good magnifying glass, or good eyes 🙂
– solder wire
– some 28 gauge red and black servo wire
– 47uH micro choke to eliminate the interference coming from the motors
Once all these are in place go ahead and follow the steps below:
Carefully remove the casing from the camera, this will save you a bit of weight.
To remove the camera plastic housing, you can use a small screw driver to push out the back plate as per the images below. Once the back plate is out, slide the camera out from the casing, be mindful of the little button on the top, be careful not to break that off:
2. Identify the pins you will need to solder your 1S battery leads to. Two pictures below should clearly identify which are the pins you will need to solder your 1 cell battery wires to. The GND stands for Ground and this should have your Black or negative connection and the 3.7V is the positive, this is where your battery positive line would go. Now, if you would only solder it on directly, you will get quite a bit of noise and interference when throttleing up. The interference comes from the brushed motors and it can ne eliminated using a small 47uH choke on the positive line.
The part number for the tiny choke to be used in this project is: 445-1964-1-ND and you can get this from www.digikey.com or www.digikey.ca if you are in Canada:
3. The hardest part is to solder the choke to the connector on the PCB. You need a steady hand, good eyes and an even better soldering iron to achieve this. I personally used a microscope, so that made my life a lot easier, the following pictures were taken through the viewfinder of the microscope:
You can click on each individual image above to see the magnified version.
4. As you can see in the above images, you have to be brave to attempt this soldering job 🙂 After you installed the choke, now you can install the black and the red wires, these will be later soldered directly to where the battery leads are soldered into the Tiny Whoop controller board:
If you accomplished all this, congratulation, you have great soldering skills, now go ahead and help others out as well 🙂 All what is left, to solder the other end of the black and red wires to the battery leads on the Tiny Whoop.
With this installation we bypassed the main voltage regulator on the SPMVA2500. Since the main filtering on a power supply is happening before the voltage entering the voltage regulator, the out line is filtered only barely. For this reason we need to add the above mentioned choke to filter out all the incoming interferences from the motors.
Amazing power and extended flight time can be achieved if the new 200mA 1S LiPo battery is used in conjunction with the Tiny Whoop. You can order it by clicking on the picture below:
The new FPV Inductrix was released on October 27th. For details please see the end of this article:
It seems that the new trend in town is to FPV an ultra micro ducted fun quad, add a 5-10mW transmitter/camera combo to it and fly indoors FPV. The new Inductrix, almost ducted fan drone is now available from our website in in BNF (Bind and Fly) or RTF (Ready to Fly versions). You can access the online store by clicking on the image below, but before you do that, read further:
While they claim this is virtually indestructible, I managed to break one of the ducted fan holding braces in just a few flights. However a well paced drop of CA and some kicker solved the issue, so the frame is strong again now till the next crash.
I originally opened the BNF version, because I have a Spektrum DX6i, and I was naively thinking that there are proper instructions on how to bind this with any previous DX Spektrum products. the documentation however lacks those instructions and I went ahead and used the “universal Fixer” of the 21st century called “google”. A solution presented itself right away by the hand of a fellow RC enthusiast, Marcus Mathos, thank you for your great video:
Now this solved one problem, but I found that the response was still slow – like I would have exponential set up all over the place. So I went digging in my older RC boxed and I found an MLP4DSM transmitter, this is the same – or similar to what the RTF version comes with. So I bound that to the Inductrix and man-o-man, what a difference. By pushing in the right stick you can change the rates from low to high – that is when this leattle beast will excel. If you push in the left stick (By pushing in I mean – straight down toward the remote while it clicks) then you go to acro/rate mode where you can fly like you would fly a racer. In this mode it really picks up speed and flies great.
In order to set this little craft with FPV, you will need to add a micro FPV camera/transmitter combo, SPMVA1100, which can be powered from a 1S battery and it is less than 4gram add-on weight:
You can order this by clicking on the image above. You will need to use a small piece of double-sided tape to install this camera and you will need to solder the wires to the controller boards battery lead, so when the battery is plugged in your FPV system is online as well. You can use the button on the camera to change the channel, or match the frequency from your Fat Shark goggles.
Once all set up you can go flying around the living room, race between the legs of your kitchen table and have fun. If you are looking for detailed building instructions, just do a search in google for “Tiny whoop build” and you will find several videos on how to build this.
Amazing power and extended flight time can be achieved if the new 200mA 1S LiPo battery is used in conjunction with the Tiny Whoop. You can order it by clicking on the picture below:
On October 27th Horizon Hobby Released their new FPV Inductrix which comes in a BNF or RTF version. This is a complete FPV Tiny Whoop with built in camera, 5.8Ghz 25mW video transmitter and a 200mAh battery which will allow about 4-5 minutes of flight time:
Well, it seems that the red-bottom revolution in quad racing continues with the new 1306 series. EMAX introduced these with two different KV settings, 3300 and 4000. We bring you today the 4000KV motors.
For their tiny size these motors definitely pack in a kick. Emax claims a 370g trust with the propellers they tested them with, which on such tiny size will definitely get your racer moving.
We received a shipment of Cyclone racing antennas a few days ago from Video Aerial Systems. So far there is not much information about these anywhere, so we are trying to fill the gap with this article to do a physical comparison between the three flagship racing antennas: RaceSpec, Duraspec and Cyclone.
But first let get some answers from VAS on some of the most pressing questions:
What are these Cyclone antennas?
The official announcement is the following:
“The Cyclone antenna is the highest performing Omni Directional antenna at the entry level price point. While the Cyclone has a Gain of only 0.71dbic it boasts a mind blowing Axial Ratio of 0.94 making it the most Circular Omni Directional antenna on the market at any price point.
Originally designed with the Professional Aerial Photographer in mind, the Cyclone’s Axial Ratio makes the Cyclone ideal for the Hobbyist looking to fly in previously “un-flyable” terrain or environments. Indoor, Underground and Urban flying present special circumstances that the Hobbyist must find “work-around” to fly comfortably, the Cyclone excels in these types of environments. We recommend only experienced pilots place the Cyclone on their Race Quads, but anyone flying Fixed Wing or larger AP platforms will love the performance of this antenna and should have this RF marvel in their arsenal.
Durability may be an issue for those newer race pilots who tend to crash a lot, and is therefore not recommended as a beginner transmit antenna, unless mounted to the vehicle per our instructions. The Cyclone makes on heck of a receiver antenna and anyone looking for a new one should take a serious look at the Cyclone. The Cyclone can be used as a Transmit or Receive antenna, no need to question which one of the pair goes where.”
Since they mention durability in the above announcement and we have all seem the video of Alex trying real hard to destroy the Duraspec antenna, I posed the question to VAS:
Are these Antennas indestructible just like the Duraspec?
Here is the answer: “It is durable, however we do not claim it to be Unbreakable. As you know the operators in this hobby could destroy a titanium frame if they put their mind to it. The antenna head will survive most any crash but the SMA may fail on impact.”
There you have it. So the design of the antenna head and casing around the antennas active elements are to withstand most of the crashes you can throw at them, it is logical that the SMA connector is the weak point – like on any other antenna. However I think that the benefit of using these antennas in difficult environment – as described above – will outweigh the weak link of the SMA connector and crimping.
Now, let’s see how is this antenna different design wise to the other two flagship antennas from VAS.
The length of the Duraspec antenna from the bottom to the top is about 110mm - or 11cm. That translates to about 4.33 inches.
The length for the Cyclone antenna is about 90mm, 9cm which is about 3.5 inches.
The length of the Racespec antenna is about 60mm, 6cm which is 2.35 inches.
The above table helps identify how tall these antennas will stick out from your quad. Of course on smaller – 150-180 size quads one tends to install shorter antennas – avoiding to stick the antenna head out un-proportionally above the quad.
The diameter of the Duraspec head is about 45mm.
The diameter of the Cyclone head is about 50mm.
The diameter of the Racespec head is about 33mm.
The size of the head of the antenna is really important for several reasons. Once – and not negligible – even with todays very powerful motors, is the air resistance. The bigger the head is the more air resistant it is. the more air pressure on the antenna head, the more torque (if installed vertically up) is applied to the SMA connector – or the shaft of the antenna. Also the heavier and more air resistance to the head, the (again if installed vertically without any additional guying or anchors) the antenna shaft moves just a tiny bit with every movement of the quad, this in a longer run will enlarge the pin/hole combination on the SMA connector and make it an erratic connection. On the other hand we also have to consider the lifespan of these antennas – it is very unlikely that one will survive crashes long enough to enlarge the hole on the SMA connector 🙂 🙂 🙂 The Racespec antenna will excel here, as it does not have a bulky protective case around it and air can flow freely around it.
The Duraspec antenna's head is 24mm tall.
The Cyclone antennas head is only 21.65mm tall.
For the same consideration as above the height of the head is just as important as the diameter. We did not measure the Racespec, because that does not have considerable air resistance.
The Duraspec is the heaviest of all with a hefty 24 grams. This is due to all the reinforcements to make this antenna s durable as possible.
The Cyclone is not too far behind with a measured 21 grams, this indeed shows that the antenna head is built beefy, will withstand most of the crashes, just like the Duraspec.
The lightest of all is the Racespec, with only 6 grams measured. Like I said before, use this if you are building a lightweight quad and you are not looking for maximum performance.
That’s all the measurements for today. I hope this clearly describes the mechanical differences between the antennas.
Many asked about the performance of the Cyclone antennas. Here is a quote from a guy on facebook (Shane Matthews – thank you) who already tried it:
“The antenna is awesome. I have some rejected ones that didn’t pass QC from Alex and they are still better performing than any other antenna I have ever used. I highly recommend.“
Updated on April 25th:
To do a fair comparison between two identical priced antennas on the market, we prepared a video over the weekend where we compared the ImmersionRC/Fat Shark Spironet antenna set to the above described Cyclone antenna set. The video with the results is embedded below. Please note the following:
– both tests were flown with exactly the same quad, same battery
– both tests were flown with the same power output – 25mW race-band TX, on channel 4 to be around the middle of the band.
– recording on both tests was done with the Dominator V3 goggles built in DVR, and the receiver in both cases was the standard Raceband RX module from Fat Shark
– for both tests we used a brand new antenna set out of the box – one was the LHCP Spironet set, the other was the LHCP Cyclone set
– I tried to match the flying course to show the results dropouts, cutouts in the identical spots and tried to line up the videos to match this.
– the first flight was the one on the left- with spironets – after we swapped the antennas on both transmitter and goggles and executed the second test.
I think this is the most fair test I can imagine to compare these two antenna sets. So if we call the iBcrazy Cyclones are an excellent set of antennas– the in all fairness we have to call out the Spironets from Immersion/Fat Shark being and performing at least the same good. So you folks who own Spironets out there – do not feel intimidated by the folks with Cyclone antennas on their quads. 🙂
The new V2 Fat Shark Diversity modules arrived. If you purchased this from our store, please drop in and bring the original with you for replacement. If you purchased this online we will send a replacement by mail in the next two days.
Announcement from Fatshark:
“Dear valued customer,
we made a production software error on the 5G8 diversity receivers sent on this order. We are doing a 100% recall. If you still have stock, discontinue selling immediately. Once we have the new receivers (about 2 weeks but no more than 3) we will send the replacements to you. Please send on the replacement receiver to the end customers who previously purchased diversity receiver modules, when you receive them. There is no need for the customer or you to return the defective units (customers should hold onto the SMA adapters and doors as we’ll just be replacing the receiver module).
Sorry for the inconvenience and thank you for your help in resolving this embarrassing situation.
Best regards, Gregory French, CEO, Fat Shark ”
Please note New Generation Hobbies will contact every customer who purchased these diversity modules from us online the moment we have the replacement units for you. We will send out these modules to you with no charge to you. Please stand by for further news. Customers who purchased these over the counter at our showroom location should contact us to arrange pickup replacements for their modules.
Fat Shark announced the new FSV2444 Diversity Antenna modules will be shipping form their facilities around April 29th 216. We hope the get the first shipment of these the following week.
To be clear and for all to understand, this is not a true diversity module. A true diversity would require two separate receiver modules and a control circuit which analyzes both signals and compares them – switching and keeping the best of the two signals on the video output. The module announced by Fat Shark is an antenna diversity which checks the signal quality and switches to the other antenna if the quality suffers without the capability of checking if the other signal is better or not. If the signal is worse then it will switch back very quickly. You can find images of the module in the following pictures:
The module ships with 2 SMA adapters, one is a right angle (90 degrees) one and the second is a 45 degree adapter allowing to easily mount a Spironet patch antenna on the lower antenna connector. The package also contains a what bay door to match the Dominator V2, V3, HD, HDV2 series of goggles to replace the existing bay door. This module is also compatible with the Attitude V3 goggles, however a black bay door has not yet been made available.
Even if this is not a true diversity, the following demo video shows the power when used with a high gain directional antenna in conjunction with an omnidirectional Spironet antenna:
As you can see as long as the high gain antenna is selected when flying forward, the reception outperforms the standard Omni antenna on the right side of the image. However when the racer flies behind the ground station, the two images are identical as both have the omnidirectional Spironet and breakups, interferences are identical on both.
On this video – as the overlayed text tells us – the flying Vortex had its VTX power reduced to almost nothing to demonstrate the selectivity of the antennas and to clearly demonstrate the power of the high gain directional antenna over a simple Omni. Please note in your case the results will not be so accentuated because most of you fly with power levels over 25mw, in which case even the Omni signal will be clear at the end of such field.